Traveling Talleys
Talley Your Adventure
Fall Flashback – #TravelingTalleys visit Denmark and Norway
When we first went overseas, we purchased the Eurorail Global Pass. It was worth every penny to have the unlimited ability to travel from country to country at a whim. We did not plan our hotels ahead of time, except when we visited Romania. The pass, at least in 2010, covered a ferry ride across the Baltic Sea. Heading out of Hamburg, Germany, and arriving in Copenhagen, Denmark, the ferry ride itself was absolutely fascinating. First off, we had just ended our last contract on Lindblad Expeditions, so we were very familiar and use to living & working on a boat. A ferry ride sounded delightful, especially since we could just be passengers. Second, it was really cool starting on a rail line and watching it drive right on board the ferry! We disembarked the train car and had the ability to walk around the ferry until we were about 15 minutes out. The crew then asked us to get back on the train car so it could attach to the rail line and drive off when we arrived. Pretty cool! The day was beautiful. We spent a lot of time outside, enjoying the fresh air and remarking on how lucky we were to get a ferry ride out of our pass deal. Another great reason we recommend these types of passes! You can choose the amount of time and select your countries to customize it. We did unlimited stops and included all countries associated with the pass. On average, we stayed in one city for two nights. Most of the time, we were using the pass to travel from place to place.
While the ride over was serene, when we arrived in Copenhagen later in the evening it was rainy and cold. We were traveling in late October and hoping that our avoidance of the busy season would shield us from the high prices we read about in Denmark. We were wrong! We stayed at a hostel – there are plenty in the area – where we had to rent out own sheets and share a room with four other bunkers. In the end, we paid around $100 US. I would not call that cheap for us at the time! Especially for a hostel…we found during this trip that it was better to get a hotel in most situations than a hostel. When you travel today, you have a lot more options – such as Airbnb. Look up and compare what type of experience you want before traveling. One of the reasons we ran into a high price issue was our lack of planning ahead and reserving rooms before we arrived. That was what we wanted to do – so we were okay with paying $100 for one night in a hostel. Later, when we were in Romania, we ended up staying two nights for $30…it all works out in the end. Just make sure you have a budget plan and stick to that! We budgeted for $100 a day – so exhausting out budget on the hostel meant that the next day we needed to adjust accordingly. Luckily we had friends in Germany we were able to stay with while crossing Europe during our three months of travel, so we were able to have a few zero days!
We didn’t spend long in Denmark. When we arrived at the train station in Copenhagen after sailing across the Baltic, I was very excited to find the Little Mermaid statue. Growing up watching the Little Mermaid and knowing her story originated in Denmark, I wanted to include it with our spontaneous trip up north. Well…was I bummed when I found out that for the first time in her history she had been loaded to a museum in CHINA! So, she was not there! I was so disappointed. With nothing else on my list of things to see in Denmark, we decided to continue north through Sweden into Norway. At this time, we were tired and hungry and exhausted – a bad combination when trying to navigate through a country that does not speak English and has limited signage! What felt like hours later we ended up finding a hostel.
Tip – When we arrive in a new city, it is our common practice to try to find the tourist office and see if we can get recommendations from an English speaking person. It is usually less presumptuous to speak to them directly in English, and they always point us in the direction we need. Sometimes we get make great connection – like when we arrived in Sighisoara Romania and talked with a local who was planning a trip to Disney – and most of the time we walk away confident that we are heading into a safe area for the night. Well, there was nothing like this when we arrived in Norway and since we were not heading to a major city like Oslo, we were on our own. When we got into our room I was so happy to drop my backpack and sit for the evening. We ended up exploring the area a little bit during the night – why not, we were already awake! – and took our time getting out of the hostel the next morning. Our trip was quick – we left to head back to Germany the next day – but from what I remember in Norway connected me to my time in Alaska.
The nights we spent in both Denmark and Norway were also marked by the uniquness in the cuisine each night. In Denmark, we ended up spending another considerable amount for my salmon and Clinton’s burger – but DANG was it good! In Norway, we had a great server who ended up having to come to our defense when we were carded and I realized I had left my passport up in the hostel. We had to climb a ridiculous amount of stairs at a considerable steepness, so when we were carded I was less than amused. If I had to go up to get my ID, well…I wasn’t coming back down to prove it. Our server, who didn’t need me to even explain this, was able to intervene before we were thrown out of the restaurant. Apparently after a certain time, the restaurant becomes a bar and you need to be 21 or over. I wouldn’t recommend having your passport on you if you can secure it in a location, but maybe a copy of it or even a US ID with your birth date could have avoided the discussion. (Maybe!) While our time in Scandinavia was very short, it was memorable because of how we used multiple forms of transportation to get across Europe.
I always encourage travelers to go off the beaten path and take advantage of a trip to a new place, even if it is just for a day. You never know what you will discover or see! Our train ride through Sweden was beautiful and our time on the ferry was amazing – for more reasons than just scenery. It was cool seeing how transportation worked internationally and neat seeing a small town where we were completely out of our element. Norway reminded us of Alaska and since we had just needed our boat season in Alaska it was a bit of a call back. Make sure to add the Scandinavian countries to your list for the future – they do not disappoint!
From Summit to Kīpahulu District: Visiting Haleakalā National Park
One of the best experiences I have had so far in 2023 is visiting three of the islands of Hawai’i. Oahu, the Big Island of Hawai’i, and Maui were stunning examples of history and culture that blended so well it created its own identity. My visit, however, was for work – so though it was a joy and privilege to be able to see the gorgeous landscape and swim in the stunning Pacific Ocean (in more than one places!) my main focus was visiting National Parks for the rec fee program. That did mean I visited a lot of Visitor Centers – and therefore, a lot of gorgeous viewpoints! My first stop along our trip was the Summit District. At over 10,000 ft, it was COLD!
It was awesome having the clouds part as we drove to the top. Close to the parking lot at the top of the summit – House of the Sun – is a small visitor center and a hike to see the land that Pele and her sister Namakaokahaʻi found over centuries ago. Today, their battle continues at Kilauea (which we also were able to view in all her glory later in our trip!) The short hike further uphill to the viewpoint is easy and short, but be aware you are already at over 10,000 feet – it is no joke! I stopped a few times to catch my breath. Even in the middle of summer, at the top of a summit in the middle of the ocean can still catch you short of breath. It is worth the hike and drive to the top. The view is stunning. The picture I took does not do the colors and beauty of the crater justice. Hearing a talk from the park ranger on the cultural story of the Deity Pele was the perfect way to end our trip to the summit. If you are able to listen to a ranger talk, make sure you do take the time. I learned a lot over the thirty minute program. Spent time realizing how quite the area really is – walk away from others!
The next day we went to the second part of our trip. The Kīpahulu District can be accessed after driving 12 miles along the Hāna Highway. Not for the faint of heart – I warn you now! The road is incredibly windy and narrow. Parts of the road become one way – mostly over a bridge or the bend in the road – and yield signs will be on both signs for the drivers to figure out based on their arrival time. Confused? Yeah. I was glad that someone else was driving, but that someone else was a very erratic driver. So, my advice to you: Definitely do not miss this part of the island, but if you plan to drive, make sure you know who your driver is and make sure if you get car sick you take precautions based on that driver. When you arrive, you will be greeted by amazing views of volcanic rocks meeting ocean waves. It is a gorgeous site no matter where you walk – and the culture is predominant on this part of the island. Mostly Native Hawaiians live in this district, and it shows. They were welcoming and full of smiles in all instances, and we had a great time interacting with any cultural interpreter we met during the day. We had a blast eating fresh tropical fruit while listening to the waves hit the side of the rocks. It was definitely a completely different world when compared to the side of the island we had left the other day!
I loved the fact that, as long as you can make it out there, you are able to camp in the Kipahulu District. The campsites are fantastic! Absolutely gorgeous views like the one in my picture, with incredible access to a serene landscape and neighboring hikes. The district is small and feels like there isn’t much around, but that is because most of the homes and areas where people come together are integrated into the surrounding forest and landscape. Roads are narrow and usually one way – people seem to know each other at every intersection, routinely resulting in a small traffic jam while they exchange pleasantries. It was a slower pace and one that was evidently more intimate and peaceful, which was appreciated after such a long and harrowing drive. It will take you the whole day to drive back and forth if you start in Kahului like we did, so plan accordingly. I don’t remember really seeing many accommodations on this part of the island. I loved the area and hope to go back in the near future!
The food and drinks of Maui are amazing – but a bit expensive. Mai Tai’s are the way to go and they make them pretty strong no matter the place you eat! This island was by far the most expensive of all the places we visited in our two weeks of island hopping. As long as you are good with tropical fruit, which I am, then you will have a great time with any drinks that are offered. I have never had such a great time with coconut options! Feel free to stop by the stands alongside the road – they are AMAZING. We ended up trying a lot of random fruit – most I don’t even remember their name – so definitely experiment. If you like seafood – THIS IS YOUR PLACE! Everything was fresh and each place seemed to experiment with their own recipe or take on a simple concept, like fish tacos. Which I also recommend. 🙂
Renting a car is highly recommended as that was the only way we could get from one part of the island to the other, or even around time. This island did not seem as big with public transportation as others. Make sure you take time and swim in the ocean! We had a hotel that was right across from a small beach and I went every day – either morning or evening – to swim in the ocean. Even if all you do is watch sunset or sunrise, it is a must when visiting Hawaii. Have a great time no matter which part of the island you visit, but when going to Maui, try to visit both the Summit and Kipahulu Districts! The roads are usually only a few lands on each side. It isn’t like back on the continent where they have multiple highways intersecting in cities. Even their most major city on Maui, Kahului, is rather small. I loved that when we landed I was able to walk across the terminal and find my teammates with ease! Hawaiian Airlines has great prices between the Hawaiian islands, so be sure to look through their flight options if you plan to island hop. Have fun!!
Hiking: Civil War Battlefields of Virginia and Maryland
My first memory of a park ranger was when I visited Chancellorsville Battlefield and went on a tour. I was 12 and was just developing my love of history – specifically the Civil War – and was on a grand tour of battlefields as we traveled to Pennsylvania from Florida. This was not the first battlefield we had already visited, but it was the first one where I felt a connection to the story the park ranger was telling. I felt like I was part of the group of soldiers who stumbled upon General Jackson and shot him, only to realize friendly fire had condemned him to death. Later, when we visited the house where Jackson was placed as he slowly died of pneumonia, and I was able to ask all my follow up questions from the battle. The ranger there was so informative, so inspiring, I was hooked! I thought they did an excellent job of bringing history to life. Isn’t that the point of visiting a park?!
Today, I like to visit battlefields for their many hiking trails. Most battlefields are driving/scenic road parks (where you drive from point to point, usually within a small town or city) or a large swatch of land parks (various waysides telling you specific areas where an Army performed a specific part of the battle). The past few months that I have been living in Potomac, Maryland while working for the C&O Canal National Historical Park I have been enjoying a battlefield park quite frequently! Each one I go to, I try to find a 1.5-3 mile hike for the trip as well as walk through their Visitor Center (for a passport stamp, of course!)
Fredericksburg & Spotsylvania National Military Park – Chancellorsville History Trail
Don’t be confused! The Battle of Chancellorsville is part of Fredericksburg & Spotsylvania NMP, but is a completely separate part of the park with its own visitor center to preserve the history of this Civil War battle. This part of the park is my absolute favorite – and is fascinating to walk instead of drive. The Chancellorsville History Loop Trail is 3.2 miles, mostly through a heavily wooded area. The trail is small and hard to pass slower hikers, so be aware of your surroundings and make sure to ‘pull over’ if you realize someone is behind you at a faster pace! I spent most of the hike watching my footing, as the tree roots and rocks along the path raise up considerably and tripping is a higher risk. Being in the woods, though, was very serene. Though I was watching my footing, I was also looking around, imagining I was a soldier walking through the area. Hot, humid, and densely forested – that probably did not make for such a great time, even in 1863. Be aware, there are no signs in the areas that connect to a parking lot or to indicate a turn. I ended up asking a fellow hiker to help point me in the right direction when the trail spit me out into an open field! When in the woods, it is really easy to follow. I highly recommend that if you have a couple hours, you take the time to hike this incredible trail! There were historical markers along the path that indicated specific parts of the battle. If you don’t already know much about the battle, reading these along the way will help orient you. Make sure to pack water and sun tan lotion!
Manassas National Battlefield Park – First Manassas Hike
This 5.4 mile hike has been the longest hike I’ve done this summer. I had initially wanted to connect with the Second Manassas hike, which can be done, but the signage was not that clear at the intersection. By the time I realized I was still on First Manassas, I was almost done with mile 5. Very much worth doing separately, though. Most of the hike is through the fields occupied by Stonewall Jackson and his troops, and the iconic location where Jackson earned his nickname is marked with a statue of him on horseback. I found the hike peaceful in the morning, and if you take some time to stop and read the informative waysides, educational! There are many diversional trails along the way, so take care to look at each intersection and make sure you are still on your intended path. This trail was mostly along large fields overlooking rolling hills. This battlefield was literally in the backyards of Virginians, many who did not take the war serious – at least the First Manassas. Those citizens were caught up in the Union retreat and hampered efforts by the Confederates to pursue them.
Antietam National Battlefield- Bloody Lane Trail
Like Manassas, I’ve visited Antietam many times in my life so far. One of the most iconic spots is the Observation Tower. This tower was built to help give a better viewpoint for visitors to see the entirety of the landscape. Reading about the severity and depth of this particular battle is hard to understand by standing in a Visitor Center or next to a parcel of land. Taking in the view from the top, a visitor can now truly envision the battle as they read about the strategic troop movement, and subsequent destruction. This open air classroom is an excellent way for even young visitors to connect to the past. This trail was a bit difficult to follow – I eventually asked a couple who were walking by, who ended up being locals and knew the path well. The Observation Tower is just a small detour along this trail, and since it is a loop, you see and learn about multiple things without repeat. Take your time and enjoy this hike – you definitely need to download a map or ask a ranger for a paper copy! If hiking is not your thing, for this battlefield, I also recommend the drive. Stop by the Visitor Center to get more information on the battlefield drive. You will be able to cover more ground with a vehicle, and you’ll see more exciting landmarks than the many fields I saw during my hike.
Monocacy National Battlefield – Ford Loop Trail
I have never been to Monocacy before, and as it is mostly a drive to location, it is a bit difficult to navigate by walking. Unlike Antietam and Manassas, the entirety of the battlefield is not connected under National Park regulations. The driving tour brings you down many open roads that locals and tourists are using that are not necessarily looking to be part of the National Park tour, so it doesn’t have the typical ‘park’ feel. The Visitor Center is small, but everyone is friendly, and the hikes do have trailheads immediately next to a parking lot for ease of start and finish. The Ford Loop Trail is at stop #2 for the driving tour. There was a lot of on-going construction, as evident from the large tractors and machinery in use while I was trying to hike! I did go through the museum for this battlefield, and while it was very informational, it was not necessarily something I’d send a family or younger kids to as they will probably lose their focus. I ended up skipping parts of the museum – mostly because I knew the history already – but did pause at the parts where they describe the flags of the Confederacy. It was interesting how they tried to keep that part of history relevant – as flags very must are when it comes to war and battle – but try to remain inclusive. They did a pretty good job trying to make sure they keep the history without being offensive.
It has been great connecting again with the Civil War by hiking the battlefields while I am staying in Maryland/Virginia. Even if history or the Civil War is not your thing, consider taking a hike as a motivation to visiting a battlefield in the future. Many parks offer immersive ways to connect to nature, as well as history, and you will find that battlefields are enjoyed by many for their trails!
Traveling Talleys 