Traveling Talleys

Ever since I was a young girl, I have been fascinated with the night sky. My family owned a small telescope, and we would sit outside and stare up at the stars frequently. Growing up in Orlando, Florida, we were always tuned in when the shuttle launched into space, or a rocket was being tested out at Cape Canaveral. I have to say, I have a true soft spot for dark skies! The first time I truly saw the Milky Way was when I was in Death Valley. I was hooked! Looking up at the night sky, even without a telescope, is one of the joys I have each time I go camping or hiking at night. No exception for my visit to Great Basin National Park!

Great Basin is not only a dark sky part, it is an INTERNATIONAL Dark Sky Park and is in the Gold-Tier of this designation. The distinction is immediately clear when you visit. Even outside my hotel (I stayed in Baker, NV) I could step outside and see the Milky Way – it was that dark out! While visiting the park, we also attended an astronomy program. They have an amazing group of rangers, all of whom give their own individual program related to astronomy. Our talk was more related to the history of astronomy – I love history, so it was perfect! After their presentation, they set up huge, powerful telescopes and turn off the lights so that you can sit back and look up at the sky. Definitely check with the Visitor Center to see if there is a program when you visit. Even if it seems cloudy out – GO! The clouds cleared and we had a wonderful time. Bring a jacket! You won’t believe it, but you are at a high elevation!

Before Great Basin was a National Park, it was a National Monument created in 1922 called Lehman Caves. It became a National Park in 1986. The early history of the cave is fascinating. In 1885, Absalom Lehman led tours through the cave. Unfortunately, physical evidence was left behind in the form of inscriptions on the cave walls. When the park service attempted to clean up this vandalism, they discovered that they were doing more damage to the wall than intended. The inscriptions remain today as an example. Because the cave was not protected for years while Lehman gave tours, many of the fragile stalagmites are rounded off and dead – no longer able to continue to grow and live in the wet cave. Now, the rangers do an excellent job of not only pointing out these issues during their tour (while remaining educational), but they also discuss how the cave has evolved through the years. I was not aware that Native Americans revere the caves and will refuse to go beyond the entrance. Why? Because they buried their dead in the area. When the park service started to excavate part of the cave to create another, safer, entrance, they discovered this fascinating part of ceremonial tradition. After consulting the Native Americans, they determined that they would replace the bodies beyond the new entrance. While we walked past the area (you cannot see anything, if you were wondering!) we were asked to remain respectfully quiet until we entered the first room of the cave. I could not believe there was so much history in such a remote area!!

Camping in Great Basin, which I also highly recommend if you are able, is wonderful because of the amazing night sky. There are multiple campsites, both on recreation.gov and first come first serve, so you can decide which route you want to go when visiting. You can also book your cave tours through recreation.gov, which we did so we could make sure we had a spot. They are very popular! We had around 100 people at the astronomy talk and our tour for the cave was completely full. The park is at a higher elevation, so bring a jacket (plus the cave is COLD). Most importantly, walk around and take in the viewpoints. The park is beautiful. There is a scenic drive that if you only have a few hours to visit, you should definitely fit in. Worth the drive!

Baker, Nevada, which is just outside the park, is very small. There are only a few restaurants and one gas station. It isn’t too far to another town but be aware that there isn’t much out there! There is a cafe at the Lehman Visitor Center that is excellent – great iced coffee and they actually serve food. Have fun!

July brought lots of high-powered storms (including lightning!) and a surprisingly heavy monsoon season to the desert. The true relief from the blistering heat and dry air was a visit to North Cascades National Park. I have been to many parks in Washington but have not yet had the pleasure of visiting this gorgeous land. When we were there, we were treated to wonderful, sunny, beautiful weather. We were able to visit Stehekin – meaning we got to ride on a boat on Lake Chelan! – and see parts of the park that would have taken days of driving to do on my own. Sometime, working for the park service pays off!

There are many different hikes and trails throughout North Cascades, and I highly recommend driving through as much of the park as you can even if you don’t plan to hike. We ended up taking Highway 20 to the east of the park – it was a scenic byway and worth the extra time it took to go around! We stopped at various forest service viewpoints and overlooks, some which required a short hike. Overall, it was a less-busy and extremely cool way to see this part of Washington state. Living in Spokane for a year with Clinton, and of course, Clinton is from Spokane, I’ve really only seen the far east and far west. Family members and work have brought us frequently to Seattle. The middle of the state is still a beautiful place to visit! The drive took about 4 hours, including our various stops, but did not seem difficult or annoying due to traffic or various road factors. As an aside – if you do find yourself in the Wenatchee area, check out a small town nearby named Leavenworth. It is a cute German town that is worth the parking fee to be able to walk through their entertainment square (they frequently have festivals and performers in the giant white tents) and their various shops. The fudge is amazing, and the bratwurst is a must-try!

While we weren’t able to take the time to go on a long hike while in Stehekin, there are many beautiful places to walk for a short hike. Rainbow Falls was one of those hikes. As you get closer, the sheer volume of water falling creates a wind that showers you as you walk. It is huge – the picture simply does not do its power justice. Getting to Stehekin did involve a boat ride on Lake Chelan. The boat ride was awesome! It was a simple aluminum boat that could fit around 45-60 visitors and their luggage, but it was perfect for the lake. The seating was basic chairs that could be moved about the two stories, and most people ended up finding their spot right away and claiming it for the rest of the trip. They did not sell food or drink, so bring your own! Sitting outside is wonderful for the wind and even in the sun, the weather was perfect for our visit! I think we were lucky! If you are able to get to Stehekin, try to make it part of your North Cascades trip. There is a small lodge when you arrive across (literally) from the dock. No AC and no TV, like most lodges in the National Park, but since the weather was so nice we kept the windows open anyway. It was the middle of summer, so I can’t imagine that it gets much hotter later in the year! Stehekin is still open during the winter to those that hike the Pacific Crest Trail, as much of the park is part of that trail system. There are year round residents and a wonderful baker that I highly recommend. You can miss it – it is the only one in the area. Sit around and watch the boats from the deck along the lakeside. You can visit for just the day on the boat! The Lady of the Lake stops at multiple places before their final stop at Stehekin, with one at Lucerne that has a retreat/lodge but is also the start of multiple backcountry hikes and campsites.

One of the coolest parts of North Cascade we were able to visit during our trip was the Buckner Orchard. The NPS still maintains the orchard today, with its unique irrigation system that relies on the constant snow melt during the summer. Apples are so numerous; they have trouble using all of them during the year and end up giving away to the locals of Stehekin. They harvest the apples not just to eat, but to press into cider. You can pick any fruit you want on the NPS land – it is yours to try! This area was serene, with gorgeous views of the surrounding mountains.

Camping is huge in North Cascades, and I could see why as we continued our trip from Stehekin back to Wenatchee to start our drive on Highway 20. There are multiple places in the National Forest to stop off and snatch a campsite, and depending on how adventurous you are, many dispersed/backcountry campsites.

I learned during this trip that North Cascades National Park includes Lake Ross National Recreation Area and Lake Chelan National Recreation Area. All under the umbrella of North Cascades, I had no idea they were considered recreation areas around the lakes. It is apparent as you get closer, as the rules for recreation are definitely different between a ‘National Park’ and ‘National Recreation Area’. There were many campsites near Lake Ross and Lake Chelan, as well as multiple trails. A backpackers dream, make sure to take a few days to really explore the area when you visit! Marblemount is a small town in the mountains, close to the northern park of North Cascades. If you are unable to find lodging in the town, Burlington and Sedro-Woolly are not too far away. We stayed in Burlington and did not have any issues. There are multiple restaurants in these towns, but on highway 20 it is pretty remote. Plan to bring your own snacks and drinks, and fuel up before starting the drive around. I don’t think you’ll get stuck, it isn’t that far or that remote (it is a highway!), but best to be prepared.

Remember that North Cascades are at a higher elevation and it starts to snow around September/October. There are multiple mountain passes, such as Snoqualmie Pass, so be aware if you travel during winter months that there will be possible delays or chain requirements for your tires. I have to recommend the summer for North Cascades, but I bet if you came during late Spring or early Fall it would still be easy to transition through the large park while keeping simple. Bring a jacket!